Are you on the quest for the perfect moisturiser that not only hydrates your skin but also keeps it firm and radiant?This moisturiser is inspired by squalane moisturiser. I created this formulation using lipomoist 2036. Lipomoist 2036 is a cutting-edge blend of various amino acids and vegan peptides that have been meticulously curated to deliver unmatched moisturising benefits. This innovative ingredient works synergistically to deeply hydrate the skin, while also promoting elasticity and firmness. It’s recommended use is up to 5% into the formulation.
I love adding Lipomoist 2036 because it offers skin hydration without feeling tacky. It has combination of hydrolised wheat protein and hydrolised soy protein. In addition to these, it also has various amino acids beneficial for your skin.
I am using combine emulsifier of cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth 20 and also single emulsifier of cetyl alcohol. I am also using shea butter and squalane in this formula. You can substitute to other oil. Please limit your oil and butter to 10%.
Remember to add vitamin E (Tocopherol) at cool down phase to prevent oil from going rancid.
In this formula, I prefer propanediol as our humectant. You can choose to use glycerin or propylene glycol. Propanediol is a versatile and innovative humectant that offers a luxurious skin feel like no other. Unlike glycerin or propylene glycol, propanediol provides a silky, smooth texture that glides effortlessly onto the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished without any sticky residue.
There are two main methods for incorporating xanthan gum into propanediol:
- Stirring While Heating the Water: This method involves slowly adding xanthan gum to propanediol while heating the water phase of your skincare formulation. This allows the xanthan gum to fully disperse and hydrate, resulting in a smooth and evenly textured product.
- Pre-Stirring Before Adding to Water: Alternatively, you can pre-stir xanthan gum in propanediol before adding it to the water phase. This method ensures that the xanthan gum is fully dispersed and prevents clumping, resulting in a more uniform and stable product.
Once the wax is melted and the water has reached 70 degree, combine and mix water and oil phase with high shear. You need to make sure the water and oil phase have the same temperature. Otherwise, your oil phase will not mix properly with water phase.
You can use either stick blender or homogeniser. This moisturiser is formulated without using essential oil. If you like, you can use less than 0.5% essential oil. Essential oil could be irritant to your skin.
It is very important to adjust pH of your final product because you want to use skin friendly pH products (pH 5- 5.5). You also need to make sure that your final pH is suitable with preservatives you use.
Amino Moisturiser
Materials
Phase I
- 73.1 % Water
Slurry Method
- 5 % Propanediol
- 0.4 % Xanthan Gum
Phase II
- 4 % Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth 20
- 2 % Cetyl Alcohol
- 7.5 % Squalane
- 1.5 % Shea Butter
Phase III
- 1 % Preservative (Plantaserv A)
- 0.5 % Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
- 5 % Lipomoist
Instructions
Phase I
- Combine Propanediol and Xanthan Gum together (slurry method)
- Mix the slurry method into water
- Heat to 70° celcius
Phase II
- Combine all materials in phase II and heat until all wax is melted
Combine phase II and phase I
- Once they have been heated to 70° celcius, combine them with high shear using stick blender or homogeniser
Phase III
- Let it cool down to below 40° celcius, add all phase III material together
- Combine all of them together
- Adjust pH accordingly
Notes
- You need to measure combine phase I before heat them.
- Once it is heated, the water may evaporate
- You need to add back the water to heated phase I