Centella Asiatica aka Gotu Kola is trend ingredients in skincare. It is known for its antioxidant and soothing properties. It can also soothe and calm blemishes.
To formulate centella moisturiser is not difficult. I am using gotu kola herbal extracts powder. You can also use liquid form depending on what is available on where you are located.
I chose to use olivem 1000 as my emulsifier blend. If you have used this emulsifier blend, you will know that this emulsifier has long rub in times and soapy properties. You can use 1% dimethicone to reduce this effect. However, in this formula, I am using sorbitan stearate. I found it is pretty effective in reducing rub in time and soapy effect.
I am using jojoba oil and squalane for this moisturiser. The texture of this moisturiser is not creamy at all which I prefer to use it during summer.
I use disodium edta as my chelating agent. There are many available option such as sodium phytate which also has skin brightening properties. Chelating agent is necessary to bind metal ion.
To have more hydration, I added 2% panthenol and 2% sodium PCA. I found this combination saved my skin from dryness of using tretinoin. You need to add antioxidant such as tocopherol or rosemary extracts. I use tocopherol at 0.5%.
Centella Moisturiser
Materials
Phase I
- 75 % water
- 4 % Propanediol
- 0.2 % Xantham Gum
- 0.1 % Disodium EDTA
Phase II
- 4 % Olivem 1000
- 2 % Sorbitan stearate
- 6 % Jojoba Oil
- 2 % Squalane
Phase III
- 2 % Panthenol
- 2 % Sodium PCA
- 0.2 % Gotu Kola Powder
- 1 % Preservative Geogard ECT
- 0.5 % Vitamin E Tocopherol
Instructions
Phase I
- Combine propanediol and xanthan gum together
- Add step 1 into water and heat to 75° celcius
Phase II
- Combine all materials together and heat to 75° celcius
Combine phase I and II
- Combine both materials using stick blender or homogeniser
Cool down
- Let it cool down before adding all materials in phase III
- Adjust pH accordingly°
Notes
- You need to measure combine phase I before heat them.
- Once it is heated, the water may evaporate
- You need to add back the water to heated phase I